Adventure motorcycle tour around the mae hong son loop


 

We had a lot of fun together, played badminton and ate delicious fruits, which a woman brought us. I thanked them with a marzipan bread from Germany scince they did not want any money.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
At nightfall, a old pickup truck arrived.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
10 men of the village, sitting on the loading area, came home from work.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
One of them even spoke English, and was very pleased about my visit.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
He told me, that I was the first tourist ever visiting their village.

 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha

 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
Sometimes I really wonder why people fly in to forreighn countrys, just to staying in a hotel but not visiting them.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
I got invited for dinner in the flickering light of a burning peace of wood.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
Together, we sat on the floor of a small wooden house and ate with our fingers.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
There were no tables or chairs here. No cutlery also.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
Three shells of food were standing in the middle between us. Sticky rice, which has to be shaped with the fingers in to little balls, was in one of them.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
grilled chicken legs were in the second and the third was a tasty but Very much spicy sauce for dipping.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
Everyone got a small bowl and a spoon to use.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
Dogs in the background were waiting for gnawed bones.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
A hunting rifle leaned against the wall.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
Then I set up my tent in the middle of the village and wrote these lines on paper in total darkness.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
Hopefully the pen works. It would have been simply not fit in this area,
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
to use my laptop, which would have enlightened my tent brighter, as all the fires of the surrounding huts.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
t dawn, I woke up as the same pickup arrived to pic up the men for work.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
One woman asked if I wanted "Coffee Coffee?". When I nodded, she led me to her house.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
Instead of a coffee, she gave me a grilled chicken leg in my hand.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
Coffee probably meant breakfast *laugh*
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
After I had broken down my tent and packed everything under the prying eyes of children I realized,
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
that the petrol of my motorcycle was close to minimum.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
A boy asked me for 50 Baht and ran off.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
A short time later he returned with a bottle full of gasoline.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
I thanked him, left my cutlery behind as a gift and continued my trip.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
For a long time, I followed the interlaced clay road through the rainforest.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
Everywhere, you could hear the chirping of insects and the caws of birds.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
Every now and then the road was so narrow, that my handlebars barely fit through.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
On several hamlets, I bought some gasoline in glas bottles.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
One of them allways filled the three litre tank of my scooter almost the half ;)
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
This area I liked so much, that I did not want to return into a big city.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
People seamed to like me very much and did not want to let me go again. First, I should still
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
see the own zucchini plantation and visit the neighbors. They were really proud
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
to show all their beautifull nature to a Farang like me.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
Back on the also beautiful winding main road, I continued to the highest mountain of Thailand.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
Exept the title "highest mountain" there was nothing to see.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
It was very cold. A large part of the mountain was locked up by the militar.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
Below there were two great Buddha Temple in honor of the Thai Royal couple.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
Thousands of tourists walking around here.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
Big busses were parked in the huge parking lot next to the tempel.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
A stupid tourist did not know how to drive, and set his rented car with into a ditches, wasting more money in a minute then the people I stayed with earn in on year.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
Shaking my head, I left this place of horror, and followed the nice winding mountain road to Mae Chem.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
The beaufiful road 108 leads from Mae Chem via Khun Yuam to Mae Hong Son.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
the bigest citys of this great and quite famous motorcycle tour.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
Attractions were signed with blue, english signs for tourists,
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
such as waterfalls or a large field with wild sunflowers.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
Luckily all the sunflowers were just flowering, when I arrived End of November.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
Across from the highest waterfall in Thailand, I pitched my tent for the night.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
Generaly, wild camping in a Thai National Park is possible and also
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
done by Locals, specialy on the weekends.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
The prices are negotiable. Although most of the foreigners
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
pay 10 times the normal admission price without asking.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
It was never hard to get the normal price with a smile. Anyone wishing to make 11 months holiday per year has to pay attention to his money ;)
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
Suddenly, I had to come to a screeching halt. If I want a glass of whisky?
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
A group of drunken young people were siting in the middle on the road.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
The next day of this great tour I sow many signposted caves next to even more waterfalls.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
Of course I visited all of them.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
When I stopped somewhere in between, local farmers, who were driving pickups full corn, asked me if I would need any help.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
The first cave, the so-called "Fish Cave", was a bust and waste of money even I did not pay.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
Although here again busloads of tourists were walking around, but there was nothing to see
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
just a few lakes, with a lot to many hungry fish in them,
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
They were fighting for the food, tourists were thriwing in. It was ver different at the next three caves.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
When I arrived, I was standing completely alone in front of a barrier. A plate was pointing out another 1,5 km.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
I opened the gate and went in with my little scooter. I arrived at the first so calles diamond cave GPS N19 ° 34' 28.6 "E098 ° 12' 58.5".
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
Here, I met an American who diligently took pictures with his iPhone.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
He passed a bundle of bank notes to his local guide.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
He called to me "Just give him 400 Bah".
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
400 Baht is the equivalent of 12 meals in a local restaurant,
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
and is more than the average wage of a worker in Thailand for a whole day. "I won't" I replied.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
"Then you wont see the cave" he laughed and followed his guide.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
I have visited also the Maelana Cave as well as the coral cave on my own, thoroughly investigated them, and even spend the night in front of them.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
But in the next two days I did not see the iPhone tourist.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
so he had not seen the other caves ;)
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
In the light of my camera screen I went down the bamboo ladder into the dark.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
Inside the cave, it was hot, humid and very dark.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
I wandered deeper and deeper into the mountain.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
I tryed to remember every corner, not to get lost on my way back.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
A real adventure.
In the cave's were giant stalagmites rising up from the ground. Huge stalactites from above pointing towards me.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
A miracle of nature. I climbed over big rocks and constantly followed the cave system deeper into the mountain.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
All of a sudden my camera battery was empty. Now it was the great challenge, to change it in absolute darkness.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
Don't panic: as an emergency light I still had my GPS Navi with me ;)
When I reached the bamboo ladder again, it was already dark outside.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
I had spent a few hours in this brilliant caves and shot many photos.
Now I pitched my tent on the spot, charged my camera on the scooter and spent a relaxing night there.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
A few kilometres further the next day, there was another sign pointing to a cave.
This time it was an old grave GPS N19' 41.9 "E098 ° 14' 12.3".
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
Also on this interesting place, I met no tourists but only many bats.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
40 kilometers before the town Pai, my GPS Navi led me to the largest cave GPS N19 ° 34' 22.31 "E098 ° 16' 41.79".
It was so big that even hundered tourists did not bother at all.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
Alternatively one can enter the Cave with a boat on the River or explore it by foot. Officially, a leader with a gas lantern is prescribed, but it was no problem to enter the cave without a guide.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
So, I had the opportunity to move freely and discover the place. As I turned around a corner, people were frightened a lot, when they suddenly saw me. Sorry ;)
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
In the hippi town Pai, one can book elefant rides. The guides take their custemers to a river nearby.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
On command of its leader, the elephant then throws the tourists into the water.
Another attraction a little bit outside of Pai is the white Buddha GPS N19 ° 21' 00.6 "E098 ° 27' 16.1", a large statue made out of white stone.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
Near by I search for a place to camp. Therefore I went up a narrow, steep little path. Unfortunately, I found no flat surface to pitch my tent. Insted on the way back I found a group of cool young people, who had been following me with their brand new rental scooters. As the path became steeper, they had tryed to turn around. Then they had blocked their front wheel on the sandy ground. Now, the brand new scooter was in bad condition. Expensive hollidays for people who dont know how to ride...
 

 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
Somehow however, each tourist in Pai seems to rent a scooter. Swarms of these vehicles gather at the traffic lights, but as soon as I started to explore the area, there was nobody to be seen.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
I came across a well-signposted hot spring, just 15 kilometers outside of Pai city. Boiling 90 ° C hot water came streaming directly out of the ground. Even everybody has a smartphone with GPS these days, there were no tourists at this attraction.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
On the way back I came past a very fancy resort, wich was closed for obscure reasons. This did not prevent me to take a swim in the crystal clear pool, which I had for me all alone. Is there anything more beautiful?
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
In fact there was even something better. 80 km from Chiang Mai there was an even more impressive hot spring. People who stop at the gate have to pay an entrance fee but I just rode through. GPS N19 is ° 14' 33.7 "E098 ° 41' 12.4". Here people sell raw eggs. One can boil them in the hot water of the hot spring. There is also a hot pool to relax and, as usual in national parks in Thailand, a place to camp.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
Towards the evening, a whole Jeep Club set up their headquarters here and began to cook. When they saw me, they invited me for dinner. It was a nice evening.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
In Mae Tang I did not stay very long. Mae Tang elephant Camp GPS N19 ° 11' 32.3 "E098 ° 53' 52.3" is a typical tourist scam.
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
From far away I allready saw hundereds of busses parking there. Elephantes were walking in cirkles, carrying tourists like ski lifts
 
Motorcycle trip through South East Asia: Thailand, Laos and Cambodscha
In the river nearby people can go rafting, but it looked little spectacular. Only the zip line across the River looked interesting. But for 30 Euro? For this money I rather rent another scooter for a week :) The return of my scooter was very easy. I gave the key to the owner and got my passport back. See you next time. Hopefully soon :) This travel report is continnued on the next page.






 
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